Check about the report of Nei Maldaner, who goes to Whati city, NT, Canada. By the ice road of the frozen lakes. It was an adventure filled of exciting moments, realized on April 5th 2008.

The way to leave Behchoko was about 10 Km from the Highway. When I was about 7 Km, I decided to go to Whati. This was one of the cities that I've heard about.

It's interesting, because Whati, in the winter, we arrive by car, and during of the remaining year, just by airplane. This, because there's no roads there, and just a lot of lakes that are not connected.

I conferred the fuel, and saw that was in the half. So I continue more 2 Km and decided to back to the city to supply before going to Whati. At this moment was around 17h, and until 21h, when would happen the sunset, I'd arrive there. I planned myself to be back until mid night.

Everything went right. I came back and talked to some persons to get some tips about going to Whati. I continue so happy because I was adventuring myself again. I'd cover 160 Km of road, on the ice and snow.

Someone told me that the gas station would be functioning until 23h, but I intended be already back at this time. It would be a good experience, going with Sun and backing in the dark. I still could see the aurora boreal.

I went up to the road, in direction to Edzo. I passed through the vile road and entered in the ice road that was called Winter Road. There was a warning, written Winter Road Open. The sun was shining like a star and I stopped many times to take pictures, look and analyze the fantastic view.

My chest was exploding with so much happiness, because of living that moment. In the end of the larger lake, where were placed the city of Behchoko and Edzo, there were some elevations contrasting with the horizon. Also by the ice way, I saw warnings about holes in the ice.

Probably the ice was starting to cede, because the season was the end of winter. I knew that the uses of the road were delayed because the weather was still so cold, with temperatures lesser than -15°C. We were at April 5th, so, for two or more weeks, we could ride on these roads.

I rode a lot, just two cars passed by me during the all path. In the middle of the way, I found a station called ENR, that was for checking the activities of hunt and fishing. The name of the person who were there is John.

He told me that if I didn't have hunting I could go. I started to talk a little with him, he was very comics and I made him many questions about that place and the animals from there.

The inspector have answered with some kidding, and said that there were no buffalos and caribous there, but there were some zebras, and laugh a lot. A friend of him was always there, and in front of the station, two Snowmobiles were parked.

I was invited to enter and drink a coffee. I entered and saw that inside the hut there was a bed, kitchen and a bench of attendance, everything together. I also saw a fireplace, that was like a stove, that make the place warm and cozy, to a cold around -20°C that was out there.

In the hut's wall there was a map containing some information, John explained me that I should get the left and go until het the left again. He sais that this way I would get to Whati in probably 45 minutes.

I thanked the hints and said that I had a GPS and in it there was the Winter Road. The information from GPS combined with what John had told me. At this moment came a car that was hinting.

While one of them entered in the hut to register the hunting, I stayed talking with another guy that told about where were the caribous.

According to him there were in a region above, near Rae Lakes. I was planning to see the caribous, and for this, I would rent an airplane with a ski, that would settle on some of these lakes.

go to the lake, but during the rest of the day they stay at the forests. And in the end of the summer they go for above of the tree lines where there are tundra.

After talking with the inspectors, I follow going, but I stopped sometimes to enjoy the place, and I started to film again. In the movie, I commented about the place and show my happiness for been in that wonderful place, riding on the frozen lakes. I missed the animals, because in that region there was no one.

The sun was near the horizon, so I tried to stop the less as possile, to arrive Whati still with sun. Even though, I was driving with attention, because the lakes on where I was driving, were so smooth and made many curves.

Mostly of the ice roads haven't a snow surface, so the roads stayed even smoother. I could never breaking, because I've already had a bad experience with this, in that same day.

I was missing the Land Rover, because with it I could drive more relieved and even do some feats. But, as I was with a rented car, I must pay very attention. In addition I didn't trust so mush that 4X4, because in another day, I had skidded hardly. And in that same day also.

Fortunately, nothing bad happened, but I was with redoubled care. It was so much beautiful to see the sun between the pines while I was going. Suddenly, I entered in a part where a side of the road was already defrosting, so, I stayed became worried.

I saw that the road was firm, but the lake above wasn't so freeze. I was fast, I crossed the dangerous part and follows directly to the city.

In the return, I intended to take some pictures. My GPS was saying me that the city was very near. In some time, the road became large about ten meters, and it was made very well. I started to see the surrounded terrains, and when I saw, I was already in the city.

The first house was small, and has an Indian tent in front of it. It was beautiful with the sun behind, and tent was surrounded by pines. I stopped to see how it was made, I saw that, as others that I've already seen, its top was open.

It would be to leave the smoke, when someone makes fire inside. I remember the tents of the Guarani's Indians from Brazil, who made the ceiling of broken taquara to the smoke leave and not enter rain, here is similar.

After, I'd discover how they made not to enter snow. Maybe is because of its angle, that is pointed and would enter so little that it wouldn't be a problem.

In the middle of the street I saw two persons playing Hokey. As I was nearing myself, the player removed the goal for I pass, and looked worried at me, don't saying anything. I compliment him, he answered and continued playing. I continued going, until see a place with three flags.

I must be the City Hall or something similar. In the side, I saw two large pavilion, I think was the Multiplex of the city, that's a huge gym.

I started to hear the noise of many snowmobiles, and so appeared a lot coming and going, some of them were speeding up a lot.

I saw a soccer game happening on the snow, in a court with snow and ice, with two goals and some people playing. I stood very surprised, because I was never hoping this. In a remote place, in the north Canada, where road exists just in the winter, I saw people playing soccer.

Before anything, I went recognize the city, because there was still sun. I saw many houses with snowmobile in front, and the cars were embedded in the snow. I questioned myself: If they didn't use the car in the winter, how to use it in the summer, when there're no roads. So, Why to have a car?

It was fast, I have already going around the city two times. I resolved go to the lake that bathed the city. There, the sun was yellow, and in some time it would touch the horizon.

By the way, I met the people who were playing soccer, they had already stopped. So I stopped to talk with them, I said I was from Brazil and asked if they like to play soccer. But at this moment they were just kidding with one of them.

I strange that city a little, because it wasn't so friendly like the other I have knew. Some people passed by me and didn't compliment me. I decided to go to the tip of the city, at a place that was in front of the lake.

I stayed there filming the sunset and taking pictures. It was interesting see the congealed boats, embedded in the snow. The cars were also covered with a lot of snow. Just the snowmobiles were in front of the houses, that shows appearing of use.

The sunset was incredible. The big and red ball, different from Brazil, where's more yellow. I enjoyed each minute of the sunset, and I recorded every part.

The people were passing near there, because there was an snowmobile track, they were looking at me and continued following to the track, speeding up.

The Sun was between the clouds, and I used my 800mm lens, to do some closes while the camcorder registered all the sunset. As the Sun has set, I decided that was time go back, it would be a long travel and I wanted to pass through the congealed part before darken.

When I was living the city I took a photo of myself to take as remembering, so, have arrived a snowmobile with a boy and a girl, asking me from where I was. I explained for them and they said bye and gone.

While I was taking photos, a dog came at me, very happy. But the weather was so cold and I didn't want to take off the tripod to make a good shot. In addition, I needed to go back home.

According to the GPS, I was at 168 Km far from Yellowknive and 71 Km from Behchoko, I would get back around 23:40. But this was calculated without any stop by the way, that was almost impossible to happen.

While I was going back, was getting dark, and when I arrived there, part of the lake was defrosted. I stopped, took pictures and dropped a block of ice to see if it was defrosted. So, I saw a layer of ice with water on it.

I passed by car and saw that I couldn't slide, because would sink the lake that was under the road. So a drove on a ice gutter, the car slid a little, but I passed, It was a tense moment. In the coming were easier, but as in the back I stopped and was driving slowly, it could slide easier.

The passage was fearful, the car slid and incase in the gutter, this was good, so I passed speeding up just a little bit. Uff! From that moment I was facing ascents and descents and I was crossing the lakes.

I stopped many times. It was very Nice see that moment, for me it was a Magic moment. After the sunset, all the sky became with an incredible blue turquoise color.

When I arrived at the inspectors hut, was already dark. I talked with john and with his friend. I took some pictures and started to talk with them.

The guy was very funny, he lived there. I asked him how many people live in the place, He Said that, besides him, just another one, always kidding. I seated there for sometimes and heard they talk about the place, but now, more serious.

He explained me about the region using a map. But suddenly, the light gone, and he has to turn on a generator.

I decided continue going, because I still would spend so mush time to get in Yellowknife. According to the GPS, the hope, without stopping no one time, it was for 1h of the down.

I have already lost one hour stopping and chatting with people. It all this waste, because I was loving the place a lot.

After this, I didn't drive so mush, because after half an hour, I looked outside the car and saw the aurora boreal. I photographed something and continued going.

After going some more, I stopped and saw the auroras was really incredible with high intensity. I stayed there taking pictures for more two hours. The aurora was constantly, and I have never seen that.

I let the light of the car off, because like this, it wouldn't interfere in my photos and my view to aurora, but for this, I should turn off the car and also was very cold inside the car. But it wasted, because of the beauty of the scene.

Even Though I was very cold and it was impossible to stay without gloves and balaclava. Two times have appeared cars, and I had to run until my car and turn on the lights, to signal my car. It was beautiful to see the aurora, I forget the time, and I still must drive 140 Km.

I tried to film, but it didn't worked because was necessary a tripod, and I was using it with my photo camera. The hard cold also didn't let me do many things. I was well dressed, without cold in my body and in my feet. But in my hands and face, it was terrible.

My nose, face and chin were like anesthetized. Suddenly, appeared an aurora light with a high intensity and so colored, as I never have seen in my almost tem days in Yellowknife.

ll colored, I was screaming with so much happiness, even though I was cold and my car was turned off, because of the light, and to economize fuel. It was an incredible moment, the Northwest Lights exploding as artifice fires above my head, with many trees around me. I was screaming with happiness.

I saw a light in front of me, but it didn't seam to get near, so I put the car in a place outside the road. Thankful I had the light to put in my head and a lantern in my backpack, it was good that I as organized.

I stood there for sometimes more and after I continued going, where there was a large lake with a parked car seeing the aurora boreal. I stopped in front of the lake and the car have gone.

I stayed there taking pictures and admiring that celestial view. I was even dancing by seeing that beauty.

It was a sensation and view very strong. Suddenly I've heard a noise coming from the forest, by my side. I used my lantern to try to see, but I didn't see anything. Probably was a caribou. I was paying attention, because from April, the bears were waking up.

I continued going and the aurora didn't stop. I was already in the lake in front of Behchoko, where I took some pictures. I stayed involved with it for three hours, and it continued appearing.

I was with very adrenalin, I'd like to have a great picture of myself and aurora, but I wasn't achieving to do it, because of the focus that wasn't setting and the intense cold.

In addition to the wind, the temperature must be around -30°C. Despite the strong clothes, I wasn't support anymore to stay outside. Without balaclava was impossible to stay, without gloves also no. In these conditions, usually the temperature is around -20°C.

It must be 3h morning, I decided to go, and as soon as I went in the asphalt, I started to feel sleep. Bad luck, if I stopped to sleep I would stay without fuel, and in addition, there weren't any edge to sleep.

At this moment, I had already gave up to cover the second ay of the race. How is important to drive safely, I resolved to stop, but I wasn't finding a place to park.

I stopped many times, I leaved the car, and I was agitating myself not to fall sleeping. By many times I caught myself almost sleeping, UI.

It was dangerous, so I decided that was better we sleep. Fortunately I find a place to park. I stopped there and turned off the car, I just arranged me in any way, and slept.

After three hours of sleep, I woke up very painful. Beside this, the cold make us feel very tired, now I understand the bears (laughing).

I continued in direction to Yellowknife and when I got to the city, the sun was rising. As I haven't ate nothing one day before, neither at night, I passed at Tim Horton and bought my Honey Dips, that I adore, and hot chocolate. After this, I went to the hotel to sleep more.

I have passed through so much emotions one day before, also three dangerous moments: the slid on the ice, the crossing of the lake with defrost parts and the back asleep.

But fortunately everything went right. With the learning that we acquire, each moment we become more capable to avoid problems.

Below there's a link with a script from Google:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=pt- BR&geocode=&saddr=yellowknife&daddr=whati,canada&sll=63.14378,-117.27096&sspn=18.339273,69.082031&ie=UTF8&ll=63.00825,-116.596527&spn=0.56906,2.158813&t=h&z=10