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Nei Maldaner in Ulukhaktok, Arctic, North Canada 2008

Nei Maldaner in his path through Ulukhaktok (Holman), NT, Canada, in April 2008. It's considered one of the most remote and original places of Canada. With temperatures lesser than 20° negatives.

It was already late. I left hotel with a shine and beautiful ski, without clouds, dry, although cold. According to what the people were wearing, the thermometers would be at lesser than -20°C. I was dressed with snowmobiles clothes, and prepared to support well until around -40ºC.

In front of the hotel, there were some snowmobiles parked, were the people who was having lunch there. Each minute, more and more snowmobiles were passing very fast, with or without hitchhikers. There, also passed a truck, that collects the garbage. It must be the unique truck of the vile.

I continued going, to know the city, in front, I saw a little church, and went there. But, as it was closed, I just observed outside, the details, the bells, the roof, and continued going through the vile, in the opposite direction of the sea, really among the half moon that formed the vile, in front of the sea.

I passed through some streets, and the vile finished. On my left, I could see a big school, and at his side, I discovered some igloos, I almost didn't believed on what I was seeing, they were almost of my height.

I checked about the igloos, see how they were made, both had two enters, one in each side. Moreover, one of the enters was below the normal snow line, probably to avoid the enter of snow and wind. It was tight, and I had to crawl. I checked it inside, one part was lower than other, it was where the people seat.

So, I followed my exploration through the city, after I would come to film and enter there. Behind the city, there was a mount, I decided to go there to get a best and amplified view of the city. This mount of really behind of the city, and like this, I could see the half-moon form made by the place.

I was mesmerized by the forms made by the snow there, I knew that some weeks ago, happened a windy storm, maybe because of it, the wind made this forms. Really beautiful, so, I took some shots. I the parts where the angle rocks were vertical, I could see the rocks.

There were rocks covered by many fungi, mainly red, I think that was copper or something similar. Part of the snow was soft and others more hard, sometimes I could bury my foot until my knee. But, with calm, I was going up and choosing best ways.

I went up until the top of the mount, stopping man times to observe and take some photos of those forms sculpted by the nature. It's a shame that I was missing my wide lens, which I had left in my backpack. In the next day, would back there. I arrived in the top of the mount, I could see the entire city above, and the ocean aside and in front.

Above, I saw a mount on my left and other bigger on my right. I thought of going there to check the view, but, in this same moment, I saw some children leaving the school in direction to a slope. I could understand that everybody was taking a blade to play with a sled, descending the slope.

I change my ideas, and decided to go there to see they play in the snow.  I had man attention on go up and down in the mount, because between the rocks, could be some holes in the snow, as fissures. So, I was going slowly, with more safety.

Up to I arrive at a part, when I went down seated, it was very nice! I went down the mount, in direction o the kids. When I crossed the igloos, I took other sight there; it was very interesting to observe them.

When I arrived to the mount, that was used to sled, the children were very excited, as a party, and they were checked by their teachers. I introduced myself to the teacher that explained me that it was a class of physical education, and there's nothing better than use the nature environment.

It was wonderful see the speeds that the children were going, the plastic surface, as a blade, were making the children go even faster. They were going with two or three together, it was very fun. Sometimes, in the downhill, they dropped the ones who were going up. 

They were wearing winter clothes, beautiful, the children and the clothes. I was exploding with so much happiness. I love children, and even more happy and pretty, with those beautiful colored clothes, with those skin-hoods.

I stayed there with them, taking pictures and talking with the teacher. In some time, some kids came to play with me: a boy put his hat on my head, I return it to him, and he continued putting the hat on my head. We were laughing a lot.

A little girl was trying to put snow on my hand. I was telling 'no', because it was freeze, kidding. But she was laughing and putting the snow again. When I saw, I was there, having fun among all the children, everything was very good.

Everybody came at me to ask my name, and after the were calling my name, to see them going downhill with the sled. It was a very enjoying moment and I was feeling very well there.

In a slope, one of the children beat his knee against and old sleigh, that was below. I was worried and leaved running to help them, I also called the teachers. One of the teachers asked the child where was paining, and the child answered crying, and showed the knee.

As the teacher saw that wasn't something serious, she gave a little kiss in the hurt, and the child stopped crying. It was very nice; I noticed that the kids are all similar.

It passed some time until the class end and everybody go to each house. The teachers collected the blades, and I decided go to another mount, on the left of the vile.

The vile was desert, although, sometimes some snowmobiles have crossed by me. The cold was hard, I was well dressed, but was feeling cold in my hands and face, because I left my gloves and balaclava at the hotel. Even though, I decided to know the left mount.

I was observing all the houses, and their structures, almost all had second floor. It means that the hold above and the second floor, it must be because of the snow. All the things around the house were covered by the snow. Just the snowmobiles weren't. When I arrived at the end of the street, I saw some dogs tied below, on the frozen sea.

I decided to get near to those dogs, they were different of the dog racers, it was the Huskies. These dogs are stronger and not used to races, but to load and hunt, and, according to my like, they're more beautiful. I also could see many boats covered by the snow.

It was very interesting, I remember those people who enjoy boats, and they must see that. In the way until the dogs, I started to bury my knees in the soft snow. I was going with care and attention, because didn't know how was the terrain.

As it was difficult to get until them, I decided to make a back in direction to the mount. Among the houses, I saw many quadriciclos buried in the snow, in addition to some snowmobiles. The houses were simple, and nobody appeared either in the window neither in the door.

The dogs were looking I get far, and started to move and bark, they stopped and looked at me, like asking to I go there. To my lucky, I also saw other dogs in direction to the mount, I love dogs.

So, I got near, they were moving, looking to me, and making some noises. According to their behaves, seamed more as wolfs than dogs. I stayed sometimes there, just observing, checking the differences between them, mainly in their eyes.

After, I continued my walk to the mount. The dogs were jumping here and there, barking, and stopped, to see if I would back. I continued in direction to the mount.  

When I noticed, I was already walking on the frozen sea; probably the mount was an island or a tip. There, I could see the frozen waves, I almost didn't believe, it was a maximum. I promised go back there in the next day and take better pictures with a wide lens.

I enjoyed those forms, it were very beautiful. Again, I was burying until the knee. I tried to skirt those beautiful waves, to not damage them, mainly because I wanted to photograph it next day. I went up until arrive to the mount.

I enjoyed each step of that walk, I looked to the sun, vile, sea, snowmobiles crossing with a toed sleigh, were the hunters that arrived and leaved. I saw al least two groups leaving and arriving with the snowmobiles towing one or two wood sleighs. In the sleighs, they were taking groceries and dogs.

Above, when I seat, could see my first flower of the spring trying to appear. It's because the winter was finishing, or was the dry of the autumn yet. I went until the top; I stood a time there, seated, and remembered to make a symbol, as we see in some places, a rock symbol. So, I put together the few rocks, because many of them were covered by snow.

I mounted my totem. Really faced with some ones that I've ever seen through Canada, It was very nice. I took photos of me and it together and went down again. I could stay all day there, but I wanted to explore the other side.

In my back, I arrive to the dogs again. It was nice, they were already my friends. Even seated, and the barks were few, ad very friendly, after, I follow to the vile, that started there. At the vile, I saw a boy trying to ride a bicycle in the snow, what's a rarity there. I stopped to talk with him a little bit.

Aside, I saw a man arranging a snowmobile, I went talk with him, and learned about the problems that happen with the vehicle, and how they resolve it. He was fixing the snowmobile with a magazine paper, because he didn't have the necessary part that was a join.

It was amazing; I remembered the mechanicals from Porto Alegre (RS). With him, I also learned about hunts. He asked if I was hobby hunter, I said 'no'. Even though, I learned about this practice, that is the main for of sustenance of this people.

They hunts or take the hobby hunters per seven thousand dollars each person, and per two weeks. The destiny is the Arctic, because there, all the sea is frozen until June. The man told me that take the dogs on the snowmobiles, and show me his dogs that were in the frozen sea in front of the city. I and he were talking a lot about the hunts and their way of life. 

I continued in the way in direction to the other mount, crossing the city. During the course, I met some people very gentle, that Said hello to me, and the snowmobiles didn't stop to pass by me.  

Was afternoon, and in some time would start the sunset. The sun was moving slowly. Some people have ever told me that in the winter don't have sun, and is night all the time, and each day have more time day and less at night, thus, in the summer, is day all the time.

What a fantastic, I have ever had this experience of sun all the day in my trip to Antarctica. It was a great experience. I looked to the ski and didn't see any cloud; it was amazing to see that clear ski, without pollution.

In the way, I passed at the hotel, but there weren't anybody inside, and the bar was closed. I leaved in direction to the sun, on the other mount. The sun as fast, and I was missing my large 800 mm- lens, that I left at the hotel in Yellowknife.

It was very big, to take with me, and stay so little time, but I could take shots of the sun, very near, it would stay beautiful, because it was very round and red. Now, started the sunset, it was slow. I noticed that it didn't go down straight, but in diagonal line.

I have noticed this in Whati, and here it was clear. The clouds in the horizon also were marking the sunset. The snow, that was white, started to have different tonalities.

I stayed below the mount of the right, just observing the sunset. In front of me, many old and abandoned sleighs, part covered by the snow. While the sun was setting in the horizon, I decided to go up the mount to observe the sun from there, and also the view to the vile.

Arising to the mount, there were parts without snow, and probably, a quadriciclo trail. During the way I also passed though a little cemetery. Looking above, I seen two rocky totem, one in each mount, there, the mount divided itself in three slopes, and I saw the first and second, the third wasn't possible, because was behind the second one. With the sunset, I try to see the moon, it was interesting, and she was following the sun, and was growing.

On the arising, I just passed to the middle slope, where there were two large symbols, forming a cone. According to what some people have told me, it was centenary symbols. I enjoyed the arise very much, I had a fantastic view, and was looking to all the sides. Were wonderful the tonalities, and changing every moment, becoming all a kind of blue.

The lights of the vile started to appear, I was far, so, to me, they were very small lights. I saw the police car of the community that passed many times by me when I was taking pictures of the sunset. There, on the cones symbols made by piled rocks, I stayed just analyzing. It seams to be simple to do, but was very well done and build, to stand all this years.

I took photos of them and I together. One of the photos stayed really good, I was me jumping, and that's my registered mark. When I'm very happy, I have the will of fly and jump.  I decided not to go to the third slope, I would let to the next day, I'd go to the next slope now. I went by the direct way, and noticed that the path where I'd go down, to get to the first slope, I was really snowed and so vertical.

I thought of slip, but it wouldn't be safe. So, I continued going down in the slope, bordered it, and went to the other. There, the soft snow made I bury my knees again. I was with care and attention, It was night, and the place was full of rocks covered by snow, beautiful to see, but, dangerous. The arising was so vertical. I continued until get to the top, I almost didn't believe that arose that looking below.

There were also other rocks, to form other symbol. I didn't stay so much time there, because started to feel a lot of cold. I was missing my gloves, and my chin and face, also needed a protection. My chin was sleeping, like anesthetized, and also my face. It was difficult to go down, I tried other way, and had to hang myself between rocks.

I thought: How could I arise? It was difficult, my hands were very cold, and the fingers weren't doubling yet, I was with my cam hung in my neck, and I was going down with care. I left the slope and go down the slope, I could see the quadriciclo trail.

I could see, because there, the snow was already defrosting in some parts of the mount. I saw a large net fish, semi covered by the snow. I continued and arrived to the cemetery again.

As I passed through the cemetery, I saw a countenance, something as a ghost, on the other side, and some voices screaming. I saw that was just someone that had arose the mount on the other side, and her mother were screaming to her, from the native vile. I was just observing, trying to see who were, but It was very dark. If I were another, I would say that was a ghost.
 
I came back cold freaking, to the hotel. When I arrived there, I saw in front of the vile, many snowmobiles arriving, came from the sea, and stayed there, in the frozen sea. They were the hunters arriving from the hunt. As was dark and my flashlight was broken, I decided to get the camcorder and film they arriving in the vile.
 

Source: Nei Eugenio Maldaner
City: Ulukhaktok (Holman),NT, Canadá-EX
Photos: Nei Eugenio Maldaner
Published : Ananda Franco Garcia
Date: 04/08/2008 <%insert_data_here%>

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Vista da Vila

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Enseada da esquerda

Morro da esquerda

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Festa das crianças

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O menino está no ar, atropelado pelas gurias.

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Barcos...

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O mar

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Cacadores partindo.

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  Event 9189 - Here All Albuns and Photos


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Versao em Portugues: Nei Maldaner em Ulukhaktok, Ártico - Norte do Canadá 2008
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